文/沫沫吐 图/lea

之前在介绍Noodle House中餐厅的时候就抛出一个“老外中餐”的概念。在这篇文章开头重新引用一下：

｛老外眼中的中餐可不是中国人常说的川鲁闽浙湘这几大菜系，早期中餐对西方国家的传播主要来自东南亚及香港的移民，他们把中餐的旗帜插遍了全球各地，同时也把菜式经过一些改良，使其符合老外们喜欢的口味。所以一般老外认知到的中餐，大多得到大幅度的“改良”，而这样的“老外中餐”对于很多中国朋友来说，就会感觉不太地道了。

所以站长往往会把迪拜的中餐厅划分为两种，一种是中国人开的面向中国人的中餐厅，比如中国海，潇湘馆和国际城的一大溜，这类餐厅基本和国内的中餐厅无异，从老板到营业员都是中国人，主要食客也是华人；另一种就是像Noodle House这样面向外国人的中餐厅，老板和厨师都不一定是中国人，这类餐厅装潢设计考究，符合西方人的审美，菜式也多为刚才所提到的“老外中餐”，而中国食客往往寥寥无几。｝

P.F. Chang’s中文名叫华馆，就是这样的一家“老外中餐”，而且还是一家非常著名，极其火爆的“老外中餐”，起源于美国，连锁到世界（不过仅在美洲和中东区域），号称全美最有名的中餐品牌，在美剧《生活大爆炸》中也提到了这家著名的中餐厅。

P.F. Chang’s在迪拜目前有三家分店(DUBAI MALL、Mirdiff City Center、MOE），几乎每一家都非常火爆，餐点时刻常常座无虚席。出于好奇，站长特地花大价钱去体验一下这家著名的“老外中餐”，看看究竟有何吸引人之处。

DUBAI MALL的P.F. Chang’s位于LG层，和之前介绍过的大龙虾餐厅（Red Lobster），德克萨斯牛排馆（Texas Roadhouse）同在一条线上。这三家餐厅全是老美的产物，阿拉伯人虽然嘴巴上讨厌美国，但却是很喜欢美国文化带来的物质享受。

P.F. Chang’s的标志就是门口的大白马，每个分店都有此马镇店，象征着帝王和威严，餐厅以黑和红的搭配装饰，大气而严峻，是一家带着高级感的中餐厅。其用以包装的文化背景出自中国第一个皇帝秦始皇。站长门口等了半个小时才迎来一个座位。

由服务员引导入桌，一路上没见到一个华人面孔，清一色全是老外，可见中国人果然不待见这种“改良”过的“老外中餐”，我想在广大中国人眼中，这些人简直被视为不知中国美食为何物的土包子吧。

 

菜单没有图，这点挺不爽，不过好在是中餐，大致弄得明白点的是什么。一开始以为菜单上标有“火”字样的应该就是特色菜，我们的点选基本也在这些菜目中选择，后来发现标火其实是辣的意思，可最终上来的菜几乎一点都不辣。餐前会送上餐厅的调味汁，据说这调味汁是餐厅独家特制，外面买不到。

CHANG’S SPICY CHICKEN（50+dhs）。这是餐厅的招牌辣子鸡，排在菜单主菜的第一排第一个。但完全不辣啊，用的是酸甜酱勾芡出来的糖衣裹着鸡肉，这是非常非常典型的“老外中餐”中的经典菜式，是老外喜爱的口味（酸酸甜甜就是我~~），但如果是华人在中国人开的餐厅吃到这样的辣子鸡肯定要吐槽加掀桌了。。。

MA PO TOFU（30+dhs）。麻婆豆腐。我不知道老外称之为什么，但这在中国人眼中绝对不是麻婆豆腐，用的不是嫩豆腐而是外皮炸过的豆腐（麻婆看到会哭吧~~）。酱汁也几乎没有辣味，但即使这是一盘“畸形”的麻婆豆腐，味道竟然也还不错。

鱼香茄子（30+dhs）。茄子烹饪的中规中矩。一般“老外中餐”的常规烹饪秘诀一是用酸甜酱勾芡，二是用蚝油炒菜。所以老外眼中的中餐基本只有两个味道—— 酸酸甜甜和鲜甜味。据朋友说，他的中国朋友曾在P.F. Chang’s工作，餐厅要求他完全按照规定流程烹饪菜式，区别在中国以大厨为王的餐厅特点，P.F. Chang’s的厨师只是改良中餐中的一道流水线，像加工汉堡薯条一样加工同质化标准化的中餐。（讽刺的是，这又何尝不是这些著名“老外中餐”的成功之处……）

SICHUAN SHRIMP OR SCALLOPS（85dhs）。四川口味海鲜。描述上是用四川风味的酱汁调配烹饪的虾和扇贝。但是菜上来感觉依然是酸甜酱的集合，尼玛坑爹啊！这样子侮辱四川菜四川人可是要生气的！本来感觉挺不错的海鲜食材，这样一烹饪真是觉得浪费又可惜呀。

SINGAPORE STREET NOODLES（45+dhs）。点了一份新加坡街面。街面的意思就是新加坡街边常见的面把……其实就是一盘炒粉。味道完全不能让人满意，同样菜式在Noodle House的口味可是完胜好几个等级。

BROWN RICE。即发芽米饭（糙米）。点餐后服务生会询问配饭，有配白米饭和糙米，大家都选择了不太吃的发芽米，对身体健康也有促进作用。但口感和香味就远不及白米饭了。

香草冰激凌（25dhs）。味道浓郁但过于甜腻。对于一小碗25迪拉姆的售价来说也略高了。

P.F. Chang’s怎么也算是一家高级的中餐厅，人均消费100迪拉姆，对比其质量性价比低的惊人。但总而言之，并非P.F. Chang’s不好，而是站长进入的方式不对，P.F. Chang’s本身就不是为中国顾客而存在的中餐厅。不过能得到如此多数量的老外青睐也不容易，从经营上来看算是非常成功的中餐厅。对于嘴巴挑剔的华人，站长真心不建议大家去品尝，但如果带着老外朋友或客户，带去P.F. Chang’s不妨是一种保险的方式，毕竟并不是所有中国菜，老外都吃的惯的。

–


P.F. Chang’s 华馆
地址：DUBAI MALL LG 层（另两分店分别在Mirdiff City Center和MOE）

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  109. 不过我自己觉得pf chang还不错，第一次去吃，竟然吃出大学时候门口无证小饭店盖浇饭的香味。让我太诧异，不过还不错，可以接受呢

  110. 在san deigo住的时候，街对面就是一家pf chang,从厨房的大师到端盘子的小妹，没有一个华人，厨房师傅是一红脖子，红脖子连中国菜是什么都搞不清楚，到pf chang 流水培训后就炒菜。总之，那里决定不是华人吃饭的地方。

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