迪拜有个很有趣且世界罕有的现象,那便是”联合国化”。迪拜生活着来自200多个来自不同国家和地区的外国人,这些歪果仁占据超过85%的人口,本地人只占到了不到15%。

虽然这些外国人在人口上有着绝对优势,且占据了大部分的工作机会,然而迪拜并不像某些国家那样排斥这个排斥那个,反而非常欢迎外国人。因为在迪拜眼中:

外国人都是打工仔!

基于大部分本地人都在政府部门上班,如果迪拜没有高比例的外国人口,大量的工作就会没有人去做,迪拜的所有设施和服务会接近于瘫痪,什么奢华生活、土豪享受都瞬间化作泡影。这一点整个海湾的国家都类似。

毕竟中了石油诅咒的中东人,要他们Good Good Study,Day Day Up是很难的……

就像北上广的外地人会相互问:
“你哪个地方的?”

迪拜的外国人也会相互问:
“你哪个国家的?”

虽然迪拜从来提倡包容和一视同仁,但在社会潜规则里,国籍的背书也是蛮重要的,这是每个人绕不开的“标签”。而每个国籍背后潜藏着浓郁的地域性,影响着群体性的文化性格、处事哲学和行为风格。在迪拜,不免要与不同国籍的人打交道,了解他们,同样是了解迪拜生活的基础。

*本文不免有个人对不同国籍人士的刻板印象,仅为个人看法,切勿对号入座。


〖 阿联酋本地人 〗

迪拜有个潜规则:打谁不要打女人,惹谁不要惹Local。

就像上海人说”阿拉上海宁”,北京人说:”我北京人儿~”,”I am Emirati”也算是一句附带优越感的话。

虽然阿联酋本地人(Emirati)的人口不到15%,但毕竟是这个地区的主人。坐拥良好的政府福利和社会资源,相对有着更优越的生活质量和收入。对公共关系,他们是爷,对消费贸易,他们是金主。任谁看到都要让其三分。

在阿拉伯世界里,阿联酋人在各方面都算是不错的,阿联酋也是少数女性地位比较高的阿拉伯国家。因为国家相对开放,很多阿联酋人也比较西华,同时相对受教育程度比较高,整体素质也比较好,性格也比较nice,虽然不乏自大傲慢之辈,但总体并不会特别看不起外地人,相对还是比较谦和的。

即便是在阿联酋本地人中,也有高下之分,其相貌肤色也存在着很大的差异。最TOP的自然是皇室成员及旁系,天之骄子,是天龙人般的存在。最纯正的阿联酋人是贝都因人种,因此本地人中的贝都因人有着较高的地位。还有很大一部分本地人属于早期外来人口或者混血人口,虽然都能自称为本地人,但社会地位相对就没那么高了。另外基于经济发达程度,阿布扎比和迪拜的本地人优越感要强于其他酋长国的。

另外坊间总说阿联酋本地人全都是土豪,这其实并不贴切,只能说在高福利高保障的前提下,阿联酋本地人里基本没有什么穷人,但人人皆富也是不科学的。毕竟还有很多因为不够钱而娶不到老婆的本地人,和那些只有男主人一份工资却要养活一大家人的本地人。


〖 印度人 〗

土豪金不仅仅是象征奢华的颜色,咖喱也是这个色儿。

印度人是迪拜绕不开的民族,足足有300多万的印度人生活在阿联酋,是全球印度移民最多的国家,阿联酋近1/3的人口被印度人霸占。很多对迪拜心心念念的游客一下飞机,还以为到了孟买。外表金灿灿的土豪国其实充斥着令人摇头晃脑的咖喱气质。

而在占据迪拜1/3人口的印度人里,其70%来自印度南部的喀拉拉邦。迪拜的喀拉拉人多到什么程度?根据不完全统计,迪拜的喀拉拉人超过100万,而喀拉拉邦的首府特里凡得琅(Trivandrum)总人口只有95万。也就是说生活在迪拜的喀拉拉人居然比喀拉拉邦的首府还要多,迪拜简直就是喀拉拉邦的海外省会城市啊!因此迪拜在阿拉伯文化之外,还充斥着来自南印度的文化。[衍生阅读][迪拜一大半的印度人居然都来自这个小地方!]

基于相近的位置、气候和宗教,印度在历史上就与迪拜颇有渊源,印度人也非常能融入本地生活。到如今,印度人已经涉足迪拜的方方面面,多如牛毛的印度人已经渗透到迪拜的各个行业。相比印度,迪拜显然更现代、更舒适、更文明、更能赚钱,在迪拜的生活经历也能为其镀金,以至于许多印度人乐不思蜀。

迪拜的印度人行业阶层跨度大,贫富差距也大,迪拜顶级富豪榜单中就有无数印度人的身影,其迪拜响当当的LULU超市,Aster医疗集团,GEMS教育集团,UAEXCHANGE钱庄等等全都是印度人的资产,其成就是迪拜华人遥不可及的。但迪拜最底层的劳工和建筑工人也是以印度人为主力输出。这样一平均下来,印度人在迪拜的社会地位反而不高不低,不上不下。

迪拜的印度“李嘉诚”,LULU Center的印度创始人Yusuff Ali,2018年身价49亿美元

迪拜常见的印巴劳工,平均月收入500美金

对中国人来说,印度人的槽点很多。首先就是口音,即便是在国内对英语口语小有自信操着一口英伦腔的朋友来到迪拜也会傻眼,万万没想到迪拜是玩”印伦腔”的呀!需要习惯很久才能适应。

其次是臭名昭著”体味”,挤过地铁的朋友一定感受过这股有点”异域风情”的浓郁味道。

再来就是印度人斤斤计较和贪便宜的性格特点,常给人一种贼贼的贱贱的感觉。


〖 巴基斯坦人 〗

笔者和迪拜巴基斯坦劳工的合影

巴基斯坦人是印度人的难兄难弟,华人会将他们统称为”印巴人”。虽然这两家其实互相看不上。

很多华人对巴基斯坦人和印度人常常有点傻傻分不清楚。首先巴基斯坦人穿袍子的比较多,其次巴基斯坦人普遍比印度人长得好看。

一个巴基斯坦的卖茶小哥也能有惊鸿一憋的效果,说实话印度人很难长成这样

巴基斯坦人占到了阿联酋人口的13%,是除了印度以外最大的外国人群体。算起来”印巴人”几乎垄断了迪拜一半的人口,真是口怕。

但巴基斯坦人的渗透率没有印度人那么高,虽然不乏一些精英人士,但大部分为中下底层工作者,如劳工、司机、体力工作者等,因此社会地位也比较低。

【有兴趣的可以看看笔者之前拍的记录迪拜印巴劳工一天生活的短片:【视频】12人挤在一个小房间 | 迪拜底层生活写实,巴基斯坦劳工的一天】  

在迪拜华人的刻板印象中,印度人犹如狡猾的狐狸,而巴基斯坦人就好比傻大个的存在 — 力大如牛,脑子不灵。但在体力工作中,他们是性价比之王,性格相对也比较憨厚,很多中国人都会雇佣巴基斯坦人从事低端工作。再加上中巴的良好关系,巴基斯坦人对华人也比较友好,许多巴基斯坦人见到中国人总会说上一句”Friend”套套近乎(多见于出租车司机)。不过我总感觉现在巴基斯坦人也变得越来越油了……

虽说迪拜的发展得益于酋长的英明决策,但真正冲在第一线建造城市的恰恰是这些印巴劳工们,如今迪拜的成功离不开印巴人的努力。


〖 菲律宾人 〗

菲律宾人的口头禅:”Siirrrrr”,”madaaam”……

据统计迪拜的菲律宾人大约有70万,但基于很多的黑户,真实数量应该远远大于这个数目。菲律宾人服务意识强,服务技能精通,有着不错的英语水平,而且要价也不高,流淌着服务之血的菲律宾人自然扛起了迪拜服务业的大旗。无论是在商场、超市、餐厅、加油站还是医院、酒店和休闲场所,直接面向你服务的有大概率会是菲律宾人。

迪拜的保姆也是以菲律宾人为主力。笔者曾经用过一个菲律宾保姆,把家收拾得犹如五星级酒店客房一般,而且听话耐劳不跟你瞎叽歪,综合素质比中国阿姨要强得多,而且还非常便宜。但现在在保姆市场,菲律宾阿姨的价格也是水涨船高了~

菲律宾保姆姐妹花。乍一眼看不像保姆,但当她们和雇主及孩子一起出行的时候,谁是主子谁是保姆一目了然。

迪拜的菲律宾人社会地位比较低,仅仅只是比劳工阶层要好一些罢了,但贫富差距不大,基本都比较穷。但厉害的是她们能把一块钱掰成两块钱花的能力,在创造出生存空间之外,吃喝玩乐还一样都没落下。很多菲律宾人是名副其实的”月光族”,喜欢超前消费,相比爱存钱的中国人,菲律宾人的收入虽然微薄,但消费能力一点也不低。

集体活动是菲律宾人的最爱

菲律宾人特别喜欢热闹,最大的爱好就是扎堆儿聊八卦。在很多餐厅里经常会看到一大群菲律宾人在那边叽叽喳喳。人均30-60迪拉姆的消费场所是菲律宾人的主场。另外很多菲律宾女人唱歌唱的蛮好的,男人打篮球打得不错。


〖 周边阿拉伯人 〗

迪拜毕竟是阿拉伯的地盘,基于宗教、语言和生活方式的相通性,来自其他阿拉伯国家的居民自然也不在少数。

总的来说周边地区的阿拉伯人在迪拜的社会地位居中,其中不同的阿拉伯国家也有高下之分。一般来自沙特、科威特这些油国的阿拉伯金主社会地位较高,但在迪拜常驻的不多。来自黎巴嫩、土耳其这些文化水平较高国家的阿拉伯人为次,而来自北非和其他战乱国家的阿拉伯人地位就相对差点了。这里来谈谈比较常见的黎巴嫩人和埃及人。

黎巴嫩有着中东小巴黎的美誉,是阿拉伯世界的音乐、娱乐、时尚和装逼输出国,另外黎巴嫩菜在阿拉伯菜系里也属于高端菜。讲真,黎巴嫩的帅哥美女确实很多,是阿拉伯明星艺人的孵化器,极大程度拉高了阿拉伯地区的颜值。阿拉伯男性以娶黎巴嫩女人为荣,但黎巴嫩男人则常常被冠以花心大萝卜的称号,擅长花言巧语和装逼,仗着颜值,撩妹技能是满点的。

黎巴嫩著名女歌手Nancy,被誉为中东版王菲,曾在中东地区代言华为手机

一个典型的黎巴嫩男人

黎巴嫩人许多从事影视娱乐和媒体公关行业,也有许多从事奢侈品店导购和高级餐厅服务员。黎巴嫩人很多信仰基督教,国民整体比较西华,所以没有穆斯林那么保守,如果在迪拜看到有些女人穿着暴露,不带头巾不披黑袍,还说着阿拉伯语,十有八九是黎巴嫩人。

黎巴嫩的美女们……

在迪拜的埃及人地位其实不算低,有很多富商和高层人士来自埃及。但在民间,埃及人的名声非常不好,埃及也被很多华人誉为骗子之国,连许多阿拉伯人都不喜欢埃及人。尤其是埃及男性,自大、爱吹牛、不诚信等等劣性常常被人吐槽,华人做生意要是碰到埃及人往往需要格外注意,另外据说叙利亚人的口碑也不太好。


〖 英国人 〗

迪拜整体社会亲西方文化,一张西方面容也能为其加分不少,而在迪拜的西方人中,以英国人最具代表性。一来人数最多,二来最受重用。

基于历史的渊源,英国和迪拜有着千丝万缕的联系,甚至说是英国人成就了阿联酋都不为过,导致迪拜对英国有一种迷之崇拜,很多阿联酋人在英国有产业。早期在迪拜的城市规划中动用了大量英国智囊,如今迪拜的许多流程标准都采用英国标准,英文系统也普遍采用英式英语,英制学校也最受欢迎,连电插头也是英标的。

英制的国际学校在迪拜是主流

英国国籍在迪拜堪称最实用BUFF,英国人在迪拜的社会地位非常高,在职场上也很吃香,自然是混的风生水起。据说来自英国的阿猫阿狗到迪拜都能翻身做主人,凭一本英国护照和一张英国Face,从英国屌丝摇身变成企业高管或精英人士,拿着无税的高薪在迪拜潇洒自在。


〖 中国人 〗

如果你问一个阿拉伯人,你觉得哪国人最有钱,想必他会回答:中国人。毕竟对许多外国人来说,中国人就是行走的钱袋子。

迪拜究竟住着多少中国人,一直颇有争议。许多华人对外的口径为30万,而笔者综合统计报告和网络资料所了解,认为目前迪拜的常驻中国人口大约在16-20万之间,并没有外界传言的那么多。

中国人在迪拜大多从事贸易、旅游,以及针对中国客户的零售、导购、房地产及服务行业。此外基于迪拜有许多中国国企和大型中资公司,在建筑、能源、通讯和IT领域也有着为数不少的华人群体。

中国游客强大的购买力甚至上过好几次本地新闻

随着中阿关系的日愈紧密,中国人在迪拜的地位也在近几年与日俱增。能感受到社会各界包括政府部门对中国人的态度也越来越好了。迪拜甚至为中国庆祝国庆节和春节。当然,这里除了政治上的友好外,也包含着吸引中国投资者和消费者的目的。

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